Skellig Michael

Skellig Michael, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is located about 12 kilometres off the coast of County Kerry. I have been going there once a year for several years now and the trip never fails to lift the spirit. It is Ireland’s Machu Picchu.

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Boats leave for the island from the village of Portmagee between April and September, weather permitting. It is necessary to book at least a day beforehand as demand for places can be quite brisk. The following are some contact numbers:

  • Pat Joe Murphy  – 087 2342168
  • Joe Roddy – 087 1209924
  • Casey’s  – 066 2371017

Others may be found by doing a Google search. In all, about 10 boats with a capacity for 12 persons each make the trip. They leave at 10am and the journey takes about 50 minutes each way. You are given a maximum of 2½ hours on the island. Expect to pay upwards of €50 a head. Believe me, it’s worth it.

Be aware that the crossing can be very rough. My single most scary boat-trip ever was to Skellig Michael a few years ago. The sea was flat calm in the inner harbour at Portmagee but once we hit the open sea it became a white-knuckle ride. It was like being on a roller coaster with someone throwing a bucket of water at you every 30 seconds or so. Amazingly, none of the 12 passengers, all clinging on for dear life on the open deck, got sea-sick. We should have expected the worst, I suppose, when the skipper insisted on us all donning yellow oilskin jackets and trousers before we embarked.

Be aware also that there are no facilities on the island – not even a rock you can go behind – so be sure to visit the public toilet at the entrance to Portmagee before you set out.

Neither is it a place to visit if you don’t like heights and/or are prone to vertigo. There have been fatalities among visitors, most recently in 2009 when 2 American tourists died – on separate occasions – from falling from a ledge near the beginning of the stone stairway. There are 700 steps up to the remains of the monastic settlement on the top of the island and it can be very challenging for anyone who is unfit.

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The route that visitors are confined to is outlined in red. After disembarking from the boat, the route follows a gentle incline along the Lighthouse Road.

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Blind Man’s Cove – where the boats drop off and collect visitors. Getting on and off the boats can be tricky when the water is choppy – you have to carefully time your jump from the boat to the pier and vice versa.      

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The Lighthouse Road

It is only when one comes to the South Steps that the challenging part begins – the steep climb to the top. Some people, realising that it is beyond their capabilities, are content not to wander beyond this point and are happy to relax in the sunshine and watch the birds instead.  On my last visit (5th June 2014) there was a guide at the bottom of the steps who gave a safety lecture to everyone before allowing them to go further.

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The start of the South Steps. The most dangerous part is where the lady on the right is walking. To her left is the 20 foot drop where the recent fatalities occurred. A chain has since been inserted in the rock as a safety measure.  

       

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The dangerous ledge with safety chain.

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Notice the absence of handrails. There had been demands for them in the aftermath of the recent deaths but, wisely, the Office of Public Works (which looks after the island) refused to countenance them as they would detract from the character of the place.  It is a wilderness area and it is important that it remains so. 

Excavation and restoration work has been ongoing every summer since 1978 in order to learn more about the monastic settlement and to preserve it for future generations. It is not known exactly when the first monks came here but it is probable that it was in the 6th Century. The earliest written record of a monastery was in 824 AD when there was a Norse raid on the island. By the 11th Century the island had been dedicated to St Michael and probably became a place of pilgrimage around this time too. Monks continued to live here until the late 13th Century when, due to climate change resulting in colder winters and stormier seas, and changes in Irish ecclesiastical structures, they left for the mainland and settled in Ballinskelligs.  It is likely though that some monks returned for the summer months for a long time after that.

The island continued to be owned by the Augustinians until 1578 when, in the aftermath of the Desmond Rebellion, Queen Elizabeth 1 dissolved certain monasteries that had been under the Earl of Desmond’s protection. Skellig Michael was given to the (secular) Butler family and it remained with the family until 1820 when it was purchased by the Corporation for Preserving and Improving the Port of Dublin – the predecessor of the Commissioners of Irish Lights – which wanted to build 2 lighthouses on it.

The building of the lighthouses was completed in 1826. During the construction period the workers occupied the ancient beehive cells in the old monastery.

In 1880 the Office of Public Works took over responsibility for the monastery and this has continued to the present day.  Apart from the heliport and the lighthouses (only one of which is still operational) –  the property of the Commissioners of Irish Lights – the island is owned by the Government of Ireland. It is a National Monument by reason of its historical, architectural and archaeological importance.

It 1996 it attained UNESCO World Heritage status due to its “outstanding universal significance”.

 

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The beehive huts, so-called because of their resemblance to beehives, which housed the monks.

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The monks graveyard. 

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Looking across to Little Skellig and the Kerry Coast from the monastery. 

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The Romanesque window in St Michael’s Chapel before the restoration work of the last two years. 

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The window as it is now. 

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A wider view of the newly restored chapel. 

I have to say I got an unpleasant shock when I saw the newly restored chapel. I appreciate that the Office of Public Works’ archaeologists and architects must know best as far as restoration work is concerned but I think they have gone overboard in their use of cement mortar. It looks ugly and out of character with the rest of the settlement.  Perhaps the light grey look will darken with weathering over time.

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The South Peak from the high ground above the monastery.   

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The South Peak from the top of the steps.   

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Christ’s Saddle from the base of the South Peak.  Note the final section of steps leading up to the monastery (not in the picture).

For a few weeks in late May and early June each year Skellig Michael is home to hundreds (if not thousands) of Atlantic Puffins. They nest in burrows many of which are alongside the steps so the birds are often literally within arms length of visitors. I doubt if there is anywhere else in Britain or Ireland where it is possible to be in such close proximity to them. I have photographed Puffins on the Great Saltee Island off County Wexford but it is an achievement in itself some years to see any there, let alone photograph them. It is an extraordinary sensation, by contrast, to see them so plentiful on the Skellig.

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All these were photographed with a Canon 400mm lens with an extension tube attached so as to facilitate a closer focusing distance than the 3.5 metres allowed by the lens such was the nearness of the birds to the camera.

The 2½ hours on the island is just enough to visit the monastery and spend some time admiring the spectacular scenery and perhaps photographing the birds.  Most of the island is out of bounds to visitors primarily because of the danger from the precipitous peaks and cliffs. Visitor numbers also need to be managed because of the possible deleterious impact of too much footfall on the ancient remains. The weather helps in this regard as there are often days during the summer when it is not possible for the boats to set out because of heavy seas or driving rain (visitors are not allowed if it’s raining as the wet steps would be too dangerous).

I would strongly recommend more Irish people to visit this national treasure. I’m always struck by how few Irish there are on the boats. Many people tell me that, yes, it’s on their bucket list and they’ll get around to it someday.

Forget “someday”.

Do it now.

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 Heading home from Skellig Michael.  

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The boats usually sail by Little Skellig – home to 20,000 Gannets – on the way back.

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Looking back at Little Skellig (left) and Skellig Michael (right). 

 

 

 

60 thoughts on “Skellig Michael

  1. John
    An excellent story & information and all the photographs are excellent, well done to you. Must try and get there sometime.

    • The photographs are fabulous but the information about getting there etc is quite inaccurate. Some of the photos are quite old-i recognise a boat that has not been at Skelligs since 2011!!!. Rain does not affect boats travelling in the slightest and in July and August you need to book at least four or five days in advance. my cousin runs a boat but not from Portmagee and never goes at 10am lol. I fully agree with you about the destruction being perpetrated by the OPW. Has nobody any control over them. When you get off the boat there is a wall repair after about 50 metres mainlyu morter but they obviously just hosed down the path into the sea. There is a disgraceful trail of cement the whole way. Well done you on highlighting this and again congratulationsd on some lovely photos.

      • Thanks Carmel. When I was there last Wednesday most of the boats left at 10am and some before that. The boat I was on was the last one to leave and that was at 10:15. That has been my experience every year so I’m puzzled at your suggestion that the information is “quite innacurate”. I had been told that visitors were not allowed on the island during rainy days for fear of slipping on the steps but it would appear that it was incorrect. However, I can’t imagine too many people anxious to visit it during wet weather so the point is probably moot. The photos are recent and are not “quite old”.

  2. Nice blog John, enjoyed it I planned on heading out again this week but cancelled at the last minute so I will have to give it a miss this year. Glad to see you made it, I feel the same about that beautiful place on earth.

  3. John – just back from our ‘annual’ trip to Saltees with Offshoot last Sunday and your post will inspire us to head for Skellig Michael next time!

  4. I really enjoyed a virtual visit to Skellig Michael. Your shots are wonderful. I agree the integrity of historical sites should be preserved. Lovely post. Thank you:) Eily

  5. Looks like a great place to take a camera, and you have had great weather for it. I get horrendously sea sick so not likely to be on my list if I ever get to the other side of the world. Love the puffins!

  6. John, Absolutely beautiful photography. I lived in the vicinity for years, and now I’m kicking myself for never venturing over to Skellig Michael. What a treat it must be for you to return every year. And to be able to photograph puffins from that distance. Wow! Congrats on the FP – richly deserved. All the best, Terri

  7. Hello John thank you very much for this information and to show us so nice pic`s! And thank`s a lot for me privat, because know I am sure I will go to Skelling Michael next week and not to the Saltee Island, that I will do a later time. Befor I read your blog I really don`t no where I go Skelling or Saltee 😦 Because I will take images from the puffins ……..

  8. As a child I lived on the island of Alderney and often went on school trips to a small uninhabited island nearby that had wee puffins all over the place. Thank you for the happy memory jogger.

  9. John, terrific photography…..had no idea such a place existed…..Ireland and Skellig Michael are on my bucket list along with the Camino deSantiago…..inspired !! Phil from California

  10. Lovely post, photos of the site, and the puffins. My partner who is from Co. Donegal has spoken about visiting Skellig Michael. Regarding the restoration work, I imagine because of the location and it’s exposure of the elements the use of cement might be a cost effective and hardy measure. Anyhow, another UNESCO site truly worth a visit.

  11. Amazing ! Beautiful pictures ! I hope to see Skelling Michael one day !
    If you know Saint Kilda (Scotland), visit my website. It’s in french but I’m working to translate some articles in english !
    Cheers !

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